Showing posts with label ecuador 1. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ecuador 1. Show all posts

Sunday, March 23, 2008

Back to Ecuador

Who would have thought I (Kim) would be heading back to Ecuador just a little over a month after our last trip! The children are all in an outrage that they don't get to go...and a tiny bit worried about having their mama gone for a week. "Who's keeping the children?" is the FAQ of late and we've seen lots of smiles and raised eyebrows when we say "DADDY!" They'll have a great time and be just fine.

My dear friend Gayle and I are heading down to explore the possibility of starting a fair trade (hopefully eco-friendly) jeans cooperative in a small town called Pelileo. They've been making jeans for generations and would apparently welcome the opportunity to talk about Fair Trade possibilities. Gayle has past experience in the fashion industry and is a jeans designer. (You should ask about hidden talents of your friends. They may come in really handy!) We're armed with loads of questions and some ideas to pursue. Incidentally, feel free to toss any ideas into the hat about a name.

We had our fair share of tears at bedtime tonight. It was a great opportunity to talk a bit about what we're aiming to do and what we're dreaming about. I said to our oldest (Simeon, 7) that we're hoping to go make friends with some people who know how to make jeans. I told him that I'm pretty sure their lives are a lot harder than ours. We decided that if we didn't have clean water, or money for the doctor, or a chance to go to school, or enough to eat that we would hope that someone would come and be our friend and try to help us. I'm not sure what we'll find out and who we'll meet and what will come out of all this, but it felt good to articulate our hope.

We'll arrive in Ecuador tomorrow night, stay with our friends who live in Quito and travel 4 ish hours down through "volcano alley" to Pelileo on Tuesday. There's no hotel or restaurant in Pelileo so we're staying in the next village, Salisaca. (We googled Salisaca and saw a few good images of the town and the people. It looks very Ecuadorian!) I'm not sure whether or not there will be internet access, so this may be it until we return! Looking forward to the adventure!

Monday, February 11, 2008

Fair Trade Learning Curve

Hmmmm...how to get all this great stuff back to the States. Will and the children have gone to Claire´s (our host-friend) 6th birthday party at her Spanish speaking school and I´m attempting to pack up all of our wonderful finds. It occurred to me that we haven´t explained much about Fair Trade and the shop.

Our friends, Chris and Trish, are with the Episcopal Church here in Ecuador. Not only have they been wonderful hosts (allowing us to use their apartment as home base, feeding us, sharing their washing machine...), they have graciously facilitated artisan connections as though it is their full-time job. They know folks all over Quito and Ecuador who know artisans in need of a US outlet for their goods. Most of our travels have been to go meet with people and see their wares. Because of their relationships we are able to pursue trading in a fair, just sort of way. Its a lot harder than we even thought!!!

We have met with a group of disabled folks who do all sorts of weaving (baskets, hats, bags, belts), some Columbian refugees who are making jewelry out of Tagua nuts, a few women who weave the most exquisite bags called Chigras (they are more art than bag), villagers way up in the green mountains an hour or more by dirt road, a family who works with fired clay, women who do unbelievable embroidery and crochet, a man and his family who weave bags on their looms in their ¨dining room¨...just to name a few. Without exception people have been friendly, kind, generous and a joy to meet. We have had the unusual opportunity to eat in people´s homes more than a couple of times and have had to decline invitations because of time.

One story to illustrate the kind of treatment we have received. Saturday, one the Episcopal priests who works several hours south and spends 2 weekends a month with his family in Otovalo invited us to his home. It was about a 15 minute walk out of town to a small building that his family (wife and 4 children), his brother´s family and his father and mother share. It is also an instument workshop, a music school and a bar. They fed us generously while the 2 brothers played all sorts of traditional music for us. Our children enjoyed pulling water from the well, watching the parrots in the trees, walking through their garden plot and kicking the soccer ball with their children. What a rich experience with lots of laughing while trying to communicate mostly with our hands and minimmal spanish words. Definately a memory to cherish!

Our hope is that these budding relationships will allow us to begin to do business in ways that are genuinely fair, just and helpful to everyone. We have bought LOTS of samples and some things in bulk to put out immediately. Many many seeds are germinating and we´ll wait to see how this all grows. Lots and lots to think about!

Sunday, February 10, 2008

Brothers






We talk to our boys alot about being friends together. That is, not just simply being genetically related, but becoming two individuals that care for each other and stick by one another. This is not always an easy concept to articulate and even harder to see implemented.

Sometimes brothers seem born to fight.

But this trip has drawn their hearts together in some beautiful ways.

They are learning to be friends.

I hope that when Simeon and Eli are old men, they will sit in some hole-in-the-wall cafe in some distant country and recall their adventures together with their grandchildren.

Jessie enjoys life






Simeon in his element(s)






Eli likes to have fun






Things you get used to


Well, we fly home in two days. So much more is in our heads and hearts than we have had time to write during our time in Ecuador. Simeon said yesterday that ¨we are having lots of small adventures while on our big adventure¨. I think he is right.

In many ways we are just getting settled in and now we have to leave. I am used to putting my toilet paper in the trash can instead of flushing it. I am used to not drinking water out of the tap. (On the occasional time of forgetting and drinking, a shot of Ecuadorean moonshine is said to kill anything that might live in the water. We have received a couple bottles as gifts and it has come in handy twice. I do not think it would pass customs upon our return. Our host Chris takes the concoction out of the Sprite bottle that it is usually ¨packaged¨ in and puts it in a glass bottle because it has been known to melt the plastic. ) I am used to chilly nights since no one has central heat. I am used to sleeping in the same room with my wife and three kids. And I am mostly used to taxi drivers using their left hand to talk on the cell phone while shifting gears with their right hand while passing a car on a curve in the road going uphill.

I am still not used to the majestic views of the Andean mountains and volcanos, the generosity and hospitality of our new Ecuadorean friends and the poverty that presents itself each and every day.



Friday, February 8, 2008

Adventure in Otovalo

We´re spending our last few days in Otovalo, a historic town known for centuries for being traders and expert artisans. We´re armed with a Spanish ¨cheat sheet¨that we carry in our pocket. So far so good. Thankfully, we´re pretty good at charades and smiles and laughter go a long way while we are butchering the language. The children have been fantastic at greeting folks and introducing themselves. Jessie regularly hollers ¨pero¨, spanish for dog, at the many specimens roaming the streets.

Today was quite an adventure. We took a taxi an hour or so north to pick up the goods we ordered last week from a woman running her own microenterprise out of her house. We didn´t realize quite how remote her bario is. We finally found her and our fun Ecuadorian blouses for women and girls. What a talented, gracious, creative woman! She employs many women from her neighborhood in a sunny workshop behind her small home. Her husband is permanently in a wheel chair from a bike robbery, but she is perservering in a beautiful, hopeful sort of way. We are thankful to have met her and to be able to bring her wares back to the shops.

Tomorrow we will rise with the sun to go to the local animal market, then hit the largest artisan market in all of Latin America. I´m sure it will be something to behold! More later on our plentiful Otovalian adventure.

The Blob

We´re feeling a bit self-satisfied that Will figured out how to upload a few pictures! For those of you who know us well, this is quite an accomplishment. Simeon´s quote is pretty telling of the state of the family as far as technology goes, ¨Mama, are you going to put this on THE BLOB?¨If you´re interested look back and see some images to get a bit of the flavor of things.

Wednesday, February 6, 2008

Our visit with Caroline


So much to tell. We´ve had a great few days in Quito that has allowed for at least a little decompression time.

Meeting with Caroline, our sponsor child from Compassion, was a beautiful experience. Despite the language barrier it seems as though we all were able to make a connection. We had an excellent translator who spent the day with us. We met at a mega-mall, which made Hamilton Place look rather quaint. Caroline had never been and may never go again. Apparently, this was to be a once-in-a-lifetime experience for her. So, as non-mall folks we decided to go with gusto.

Initially, we played UNO and talked together, getting to know her, her mother and her little sister. Then we went to the game place, rode bumper cars, ate Happy Meals and KFC, had ice cream...Simeon commented that Caroline didn´t stop smiling all day. A little weird to be the gringos with the cash but we hope she could see our genuine interest and enjoyment of her.

Afterwards we visited the afterschool program where Caroline is tutored and cared for three afternoons a week. This is also where she gets three good meals each week. We were overwhelmed by the hugs of all the joyful, friendly children. Out of four hundred kids in this particular program sponsored by Compassion, about five kids a year get visited from their sponsors. We wondered what it was like for the other children to observe us as Caroline´s sponsors.

We ended the day with a visit to Caroline´s home. Her home was very simple. We have had the opportunity to be in a number if Ecuadorean homes and Caroline´s was the roughest. We were welcomed and hosted well by Caroline and her cousins. We sang songs and laughed a lot together.

We have had an ongoing conversation with our kids since we have been here: What is the difference between poverty and simplicity? Is there a line to be drawn? Where is it gray? When are conditions absolutely unacceptable by any standards? When am I imposing my own standards that might have very little bearing on the cultural context before me? When is simplicity misunderstood as poverty? What is it like to be in a place of material wealth and be totally impoverished? Many questions have been asked. We are struggling through the answers.

So so much to unpack about this day. Caroline walked us all the way to the bus and waved and waved until we were out of sight. It really was a weighty, beautiful priviledge to be together.

We are convinced that sponsoring a child through any of the credible organizations available is some of the best use of our financial resources...and it has sparked some wonderful conversations with our kids.

Sunday, February 3, 2008

togetherness




Not really sure how to write. I´m so extraordinarily thankful to have my sweet husband back in our room telling the children a story. Car accidents can happen anywhere, but this was a sobering day. We´re thankful to have at least one more day together and hopefully many more. Its good to be reminded of good gifts.

Not surprisingly, I´m thinking a lot about togetherness. While we´re here at Chris and Trish´s apartment, we´re all sleeping in one room, with the children on the floor on mattresses. Its pretty cozy. For several mornings I´ve walked past them all piled together on 1 little mattress entangled like a litter of puppies. We´re reminded of the beauty of simplicity. Its also good to know that the 3 children and I can all fit in one seat on the public trolley. 3 coloring books, one set of markers, a deck of UNO cards and some bubbles have been our main source of entertainment.

The entertainment highlight, however, is Daddy´s story that started in Chattanooga the night before we left. The basic premise is that some bad guys have stolen all the smiles of all the children in Ecuador and it is up to the Honeycutt children to solve the mystery and restore the smiles. The story has developed in installments depending on the day, the situation and the need for distraction. (You can really develop a plot on the 2 hour drive to Atlanta.) It weaves together the places we´ve been and the people we´ve met. And the children are passionately involved as they give suggestions of how to get out of sticky situations or where to go to next. Will is a deep well of creativity these days!

One other quick thought. We´ve been trying to keep a journal and let the children, particularly Simeon dictate. Its been a great way to debrief and help him process through the things we´re experiencing. You never know what strikes them, or confuses them, or captures their heart unless you take time to stop and ask. Tonight I´m reminded of the gift of being together.

Unpredictability


We have been staying in Quito with our hosts Chris and Trish Morck. This morning Chris and I left early to head three hours south to investigate some possibilities with a denim cooperative. Kim was to go with Trish to meet with another set of artisans. It was to be a divide and conquer sort of day.
The roads were wet from the rain and the car next to us drifted into our lane as we rounded a bend in the road. Chris breaked and honked as is the usual custom down here. Things would have been fine but the other car came even further into our lane bumping the front right panel. Hitting the curb of the median our truck flipped and we landed up-side-down, hanging from our seat belts, the cab crushed above our heads. I waited to be hit again by cars coming from the oncoming lanes or from behind. Little did I realize that we landed perfectly on the grassy median in a section with no trees.

We walked away from the accident.

Our lives were preserved for another day.

The scenario could have been very different.

Chris and I are doing alright. Chris took a cab to the hospital to get his head and neck checked out. He returned with a neck brace.
Other than being rattled and emotionally exhausted, often finding myself just tearing up, I am doing good. I sure savored the hugs from Kim and the kids when we finally returned home.

Saturday, February 2, 2008

Piranha Fishing


In the Amazon we were priviledged to see lots of amazing animals and plants. We were only ten minutes into our first canoe paddle when we came upon a sloth making his way up a tree. Unlike a zoo, the animals never remain in the same place. So, you find yourself wanting to stay and stay, just looking at something you may never see again. Sure enough, it was the only sloth sighting in the last few months.
On the first morning, I took the boys on a nature hike. While we were out Kim lounged in the hammock with Jessie. Three Giant Otters swam up to the dock and wrestled for a while before setting out again. What makes this rather extraordinary is that this view was even rarer than the sloth. Only 2,000 of the endangered otters remain in the world and Kim enjoyed three of them. Needless to say, the other guests were more than jealous.
We saw four types of monkeys, many of which played tag in the trees above our lodge. We saw around seventy bird species that we have never seen before. And we observed the Blue Morph butterfly darting about the river banks.
We had two sort of ¨rights of passage¨ experiences for the boys. The first entailed going out at night looking for caimans, alligators. During the day, for the most part, they hide in the marshy edges of the lagoon and creeks. So, with a big battery operated flashlight we set out to spot the red eyes of caimans lurking in the water. Nothing like being in a low canoe, with fifty red eyes all about you. Both boys were between my legs as we paddled up (within reason, Grandmas and Grandpas) towards the caimans for a better view. A portable blood-pressure indicator would have revealed increased pulse for all of us.
The day before we left I went out with the boys for a little pirana fishing from the canoe. Just a bamboo pole, line, a hook and some red meat is all you need. Drop it in, wiggle the line and pull up when you feel a tug. Up close, those little guys are pretty cool. And, yes, their teeth appear really sharp. Since it was catch-and-release, it was nice to have the guide in the boat to do the ¨release¨part. However, I did not anticipate the fiestyness of the pirana, enough to get itself free of the hook and flip about the floor of the canoe... one of those times you wish you were not in your sandals.

Friday, February 1, 2008

Deep in the Amazon


We will spend alot of time refering to and evaluating our time in the Amazon jungle.

East from the slopes of the Ecuadorean Andes is the headwaters of what becomes the Amazon River. We began the day with a 30 minute flight over the Andes mountains, leaving 50 degree overcast weather and greeted with sunny 85 degrees and a bit of humidity . After a quick ¨bus¨ride to the Napo River we boarded a motorized canoe for a two and a half hour ride east down the river. This was our first upclose view of the Amazon region. Very lush and green as one might expect, the beauty only broken by the obvious influence of the oil industry. We slowed to enter a small tributary and transfer to a dugout canoe, literally carved out of single tree. The last leg of this trip involved a one and a half hour paddle (by our native and biligual guides) up a creek to the lagoon which we would call home for the next five days. We would have been exhausted if it was not for the sheer granduer of pure, endless rainforest.
For those who enjoy GoogleEarth, type in ¨Napo Wildlife Center, Ecuador¨. This will give you a sense of the remoteness of our experience.

Visit to Carolina


Today we get to spend the day with Carolina. Last August we were encouraged by someone to begin sponsoring a child through Compassion International. We could have just sent our name in to the organization and get assigned a boy or girl, but Ecuador was on our minds. We went to the Compassion website and did a country search thinking we would narrow down our options significantly.
It is difficult to look at picture after picture of beautiful children, everyone of them needing assitance to attend school and receive some of the basic necessities of life. How does one ¨pick¨ a kid? What is the criteria? How were the five of us going to decided together?
In the midst of wrestling through these questions with our kids, our oldest said ¨Hey, look, it is that girl´s birthday!¨ In that moment we all agreed that we could give Carolina a fun birthday present.
So, today we get to meet her. Kim and I are a little nervous. We realize that relationships like this one with Carolina are often skewed. We are seen as the Givers and she is the Receiver. The rich Westerners are making things better for her. It is always more complicated... and potentially more beautiful.
We have much to learn today. I hope we ask good questions and have ears to hear. I hope we can love on her with our presence and not just the money we contribute from afar each month. I hope we can learn about her context and know how to enter into it for a brief moment of time and in the future. I hope today that Carolina is the Giver and we are the Receivers.

Monday, January 28, 2008

live a year in a week


It is surreal to sit at a computer at an ecolodge far in the Amazon Basin. We are as removed from the rest of the world as we ever will be. Its beyond words. I'm aware that blogging while paying for minutes is definately an inhibitor to creativity. We just wanted to let folks know we are still kicking!

This week has been a beautiful whirlwind. We will expound later, but I'll sketch out the rough shape. After adjusting in Quito for a day we spent 3 days driving through the Andes meeting with artisans with our host friends. People have been so generous and friendly. We have placed some orders (Jency, our manager, will be happy to know we ordered some awesome clothes!) and bought lots of samples. We have been in some of the most remote and diverse places we have ever experienced. Above the tree line look like something out of Star Wars (according to Simeon, 6).

Saturday we headed out to our surprise adventure, to find ourselves 6 modes of transportation later a this unbelievable lodge in the Napo Wildlife Reserve. I can hardly imagine a more peaceful place (in spite of the alligator laden lagoon). The boys and their Daddy will have much to report on all their adventures. Jessie, unfortunately, has been sick. Not ämazon"sick, it started Friday before we left and is just a bad flu bug. Those of you who know us well will be glad to know we even took her to a doctor to make sure she's OK. The upshot is that she an I have spent a lovely time swinging in the hammock and resting in the top of the lookout tower. There is another family traveling here, which is always a fun encouragement. Much much more later on all of this!

Time is up on this computer, and I have a sweaty, snoring 3-year-old resting on my lap. One final note for now. The boys' favorite meal so far has been a whole trout cooked by local friend! Good for them!

Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Gatlinburg, Thongs and Back Hoes


We ended yesterday with a brilliant full moonrise silouetting the volcano visible from the large bay window of where we are staying. We were amazed and the kids were freaking out. What a treat.

Earlier in the day we took an excursion to the city park. On the way we passed a strip of buildings with the familiar logos of McDonalds, KFC and Burger King. Our six year old said ¨Hey, daddy, it looks like Gatlinburg.¨ Indeed, it did and no commentary was necessary.

His quote of the day was matched by our three year old. A billboard with an attractive women lathered in baby oil and sporting a well-placed thong was beckoning my family to eat a meal at her restaurant. Our girl said, ¨Daddy, I see her bottom¨. Yes, I see her bottom , too. ¨Daddy, she needs some pants.¨ Yes, she could use some pants. We ate dinner at home.

And our middle boy found the park of his dreams. Large, yellow, earth moving equipment was set on concrete foundations. Who needs Tonka trucks when you can climb on the real thing? I doubt any municipality in the States would expose our children to such danger. I think we will go back next week.

Spoke too soon


So, the girls did not show their normal fortitude and both of us came down with altitude sickness! Poor little Jessie would start walking then just sit down and cry saying,¨My legs feel funny!¨ Fevery and dizzy, but we should be adjusted by tomorrow.

Yesterday we laid low, unpacked and went to the local downtown park where the children learned a very important spanish word, ¨helado.¨ This is usually yelled repeatedly until the man with the bicycle ice cream cart comes around. It was great to have a 5 year old translator (our friends´ child, Claire) for the ice cream guy and the taxi driver.

Today we left early for Ibarra, an artisan town about 3 hours north of Quito. Its near the Columbian border and an easy stopping point for Columbian refugees. Apparently, the situation in Columbia is gruesome with paramilitary groups doing all kinds of horrific acts of violence. Its surreal and disturbing to realize what doesn´t even make the news back home.

We met up with a friend of Chris´ who is a priest of the Episcopal Church there. After a series of unfortunate events (girls being sick, the truck battery died, the artisans didn´t meet us at the church as scheduled and the sample goods were locked in a closet with no key...), we drove up to some villages and met with people in their homes. What a treat! One family did ceramic work with a cooperative and they had a whistling parrot who also spoke Spanish in one of their trees. Everyone from the grandpa and grandma on down was there to be a part of the meeting. We ¨sealed the deal¨ on jewelry with some Sprite from the village store. And the children left with flowers and parrot feathers as gifts.

Next we went to a home where the woman´s husband was disabled (from a bike robbery) and she started a microenterprise making guazy, embroidered blouses and pants. She employs several local women and supports her family. Senora Laura Maria was inspirational to me! Her products were also beautiful, so we ordered a package to take home with us. Women´s blouses, girl´s blouses, crop pants, girl´s dresses...

Our children are troopers. Today they amused themselves even without Uno, Go Fish and coloring books (the airport staples). They greeted everyone they met and even tried out a little Spanish.

It was a successful day despite the setbacks.

Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Hola from Ecuador


I can hardly believe I´m sitting in Quito, Ecuador, overlooking red clay roofs, and the massive expanse of this capital city. The hills are backdropped by mountains which they say are snow covered under the distant clouds. We´re at almost 10,000 feet, but it looks like nobody is really feeling the effects of altitude sickness too badly. We have arrived safe and sound! (or at least as sound as we started out)

Yesterday we got up before the sun and hitched a ride with our sweet cousin to Atlanta. The trip went without a hitch, which is of course, what you hope for. Jessie was a little nervous about going through security, but everybody thought is was a kick to have to take your shoes off. We picnicked in various gates watching planes come and go and luggage be loaded and unloaded from the silver underbellies. Being with children gives you a good reason to think and talk about things we take for granted. ¨How do we know where to go,¨ Äre all the even gates on this side¨,¨ Where all these people going¨,¨Why is this potty going to flush by itself,¨... We took one flight to Miami and another into Quito. The plane offers much to pique a child´s curiousity, but the 2 highlights were the tiny bathrooms and seeing the ocean. In retrospect, the 2 hour car ride to Atlanta was the craziest part of the trip.

Our friends, Chris and Trish (along with their 2 girls, 5 and 1) are hosting us in Quito. We know them from our stint in Honduras 7 years ago. Its great to reconnect! The children are having a ball. The airport is right in the middle of Quito, so we have spent most of the morning watching planes of all varieties land from our window. After we unpack we´re going to head out to the market and the park.

We may be out of pocket for a few days as we are heading out to meet artisans starting tomorrow. We´re already looking around the apartment and seeing cool things for the shop. Will grabbed one of Chris´ shirts off the laundry line. Maybe there´s a men´s line in our future! Adios, until later! (Sorry, punctuation is going to be tricky on Spanish formatted keyboards)

Sunday, January 20, 2008

Saddle Up the Horses--Off to Ecuador

Watching the sunrise up against Lookout Mountain its hard to believe this is our last day before leaving for Ecuador. A little background on this crazy adventure

We've been itching to travel since we got back from Slovakia 6 years ago. Our oldest turned one, learned to walk and said his first words in Eastern Europe. Since then we have had 2 more children and realized travelling when the short people outnumber the tall people was not an adventure we were up for. We said when the baby was potty-trained we would take another trip. When Jessie announced this summer that she was "all done" with diapers we started looking at flights to Ecuador. Six months later, Simeon (6), Eli (4) , Jessie (3) along with their mama and dad are as ready as we're going to be for our big adventure!

We chose Ecuador for a few reasons: its relative cheap (compared say, to Indonesia), its in the same time zone (going to Texas would be a bigger time adjustment), we have friends down there (being together is always more fun) and the largest artisan market in Latin America is in Otovalo, just north of the capital. Plus, we speak a tiny bit of Spanish (emphasis on tiny).

So we've been working on a little Spanish with the children. I (Kim) spent a bit of time on Rosetta Stone language program. Its fantastic and is available at our local library even on-line from your home computer. Our language goals are for all of us to be polite and be able to try to make friends. So far, even Jessie (3, who's English is still a little tricky) can say basic greetings and introduce herself. We got a bunch of Spanish CD's from the library and have been playing them for a month or so. When we land, they will at least have heard the sound of these words that they don't understand. We'll see how we progress! Key Question: Donde es el bano?

We're going for 2 main reasons, one professional and one personal. We're hoping to meet artisans whose goods we can sell at the store. We're looking for fair trade cooperatives and communities who need a fair, equitable link to the US market. In the bigger picture, we think that the world is a beautiful place full of interesting, creative people and wonders of God and man. To see people living differently opens us up for inspiration, appreciation and a new perspective. As I sit here at my computer, in my warm house, after making tea with clean water from the faucet, wondering which thing to make for breakfast, I'm hoping that our trip will help us be really thankful for things we normally take for granted.

Pancakes and sausage. Off to enjoy our last day at home for a while.